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Blue Acara

Andinoacara pulcher

The Blue Acara (*Andinoacara pulcher*) represents the perfect alternative for those who are in love with the sparkling shapes and colors of the Green Terror, but do not own thousand-liter tanks nor wish to manage the murderous nature of "Monster Fish". Decidedly more contained (it stops around 15-16 cm / 6 inches), the Blue Acara is famous for being an exceptionally robust and tolerant cichlid. The body is greyish-blue crossed by weak dark vertical bands, but the cheeks and most of the flanks are illuminated by horizontal lines and dots of a brilliant iridescent blue (hence the name "pulcher", which in Latin means "beautiful"). In recent years the controversial artificial variety 'Electric Blue Acara', totally neon blue, has caught on.

Taxonomy
Class:Actinopteri
Order:Perciformes
Family:Cichlidae
Subfamily:Cichlasomatinae
Genus:Andinoacara
Species:Andinoacara pulcher*
* Comunemente noto col vecchio nome Aequidens pulcher

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Water Temperature

22 - 30 °C

pH Value

6.5 - 8

Water type

Freshwater

Tank level

Bottom and middle

Adult size

16 cm

Minimum tank volume

>= 150 L

Minimum group

>= 2

GH

3 - 15 dGH

KH

1 - 7 dKH

TDS

55 - 295 ppm

Conductivity

86 - 461 uS/cm

Species description

Geographical Origin and Habitat: Native to Central and South America, specifically in the river basins of Trinidad, northern Colombia and Venezuela. Prefers stagnant, turbid or slow waters, rich in floating plant covers and silty or sandy bottoms.
Taxonomy and Morphology: Known as the Blue Acara (now formally Andinoacara pulcher). Cichlid with a stocky and compressed body, round head and large eyes. The dorsal and anal fins lengthen to a point, especially in males. Grows to about 15-16 cm (6 inches).
Social Behavior: Among the South American cichlids it is considered one of the most moderate and peaceful. Forms lasting monogamous pairs. The marked territoriality emerges clearly only during courtship and defense of the offspring.
Coloration and Sexual Dimorphism: Wears a spectacular iridescent electric blue livery, with iridescent spots along the flanks and green/blue reticulations on the opercular face. Males develop more evident filiform extensions on the fins and are generally more massive than females.

Care, breeding and tankmates

Aquarium Setup: Tank starting from 100-120 liters (25-30 gallons) for a pair. Prefers a densely planted tank (since, unlike other cichlids, it does not compulsively uproot plants), soft sand bottom, flat stones for laying eggs and roots to provide shelter.
Diet and Feeding: Omnivorous and voracious micro-predator in nature. In the aquarium it enthusiastically accepts granules for cichlids, earthworms, brine shrimp, bloodworms and small pieces of fish/shrimp. Balance the protein diet with occasional plant additions (spirulina).
Water Quality: Steel fish, extremely famous for its tolerance to disparate chemical ranges. Survives pH between 6.5 and 8.0 and a wide spectrum of hardnesses (GH 3-15). The ideal temperature ranges from 22 to 30°C (72-86°F). Regular water changes are however recommended to minimize nitrates.
Compatibility and Cohabitation: Ideal for medium or large sized community tanks. Can cohabit peacefully with large Tetras, massive Corydoras (like Brochis), Loricariids and other mild-tempered Cichlids. Will inevitably devour neons or fish 2-3 cm long.
Aquarium Breeding: Very easy and prolific. Open substrate spawners: they clean a smooth rock where the female will glue hundreds of eggs. Both parents furiously protect eggs and fry, attacking without fear even the breeder's hands.
Risks and Diseases: Rustic and very resistant species. An overcrowded tank and absent water changes can trigger the "Hole in the Head Disease" (Hexamita/Spironucleus), typical of large cichlids. Easy to cure if water parameters are restored promptly.

Geographic Origin and Distribution

Native to Central and South America, specifically in the river basins of Trinidad, northern Colombia and Venezuela. Prefers stagnant, turbid or slow waters, rich in floating plant covers and silty or sandy bottoms.

Origin

Amazon, Orinoco, and GuianasCentral America and CaribbeanNorth America

Fish profile

Temperament
Aggressive
The Blue Acara is considered one of the more peaceful medium-sized cichlids, making it suitable for community tanks. However, they can show mild territorial behavior, which intensifies significantly during breeding. Both parents will defend their spawning site vigorously against any intruders. Outside of reproduction, they generally exhibit a calm and inquisitive demeanor.
Diet
Omnivore
As opportunistic omnivores, Blue Acaras require a balanced diet consisting of both meaty foods and vegetable matter. High-quality cichlid pellets or flakes should serve as the staple diet, supplemented with live or frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, and Mysis shrimp. They will also appreciate occasional offerings of earthworms or blanched vegetables like spinach. Providing a varied menu ensures they maintain vibrant coloration and good health.
Life expectancy
8-10 years
In captivity, the Blue Acara has a typical lifespan of 8 to 10 years when provided with high-quality care. Achieving their maximum lifespan requires maintaining stable water parameters, a stress-free environment, and a clean aquarium. Offering a varied, nutrient-rich diet also plays a critical role in supporting their immune system and preventing premature aging. Regular health checks and avoiding aggressive tankmates will further ensure they live a full, healthy life.
Sex ratio
ONE_TO_ONE
In a home aquarium, the Blue Acara is best kept in bonded monogamous pairs. Keeping them in a 1:1 male-to-female ratio is ideal to prevent aggression, particularly during the spawning season. If you are starting with juveniles, a small group of 5 to 6 individuals can be raised together until a compatible pair naturally forms. Once a pair is established, the remaining fish should be moved to separate tanks to avoid territorial conflicts.
Feeding frequency
Twice daily
It is recommended to feed adult Blue Acaras one or two times a day, offering only what they can consume within two to three minutes. Overfeeding should be strictly avoided as it leads to poor water quality and digestive issues. Juvenile fish are growing rapidly and benefit from smaller, more frequent meals, about three times daily. Fasting them for one day a week can also help regulate their digestive systems.
Bioload
Medium to High
The Blue Acara produces a moderate to high amount of biological waste due to its size and high-protein diet. An efficient filtration system, preferably a canister or strong hang-on-back filter, is essential to maintain low nitrate levels. Regular weekly water changes of 25% to 30% are highly recommended to prevent the buildup of toxins. Keeping the substrate clean is also vital since these fish frequently dig and stir up debris.
Flow
Strong
In their natural habitat, Blue Acaras are found in a variety of water flows, from still lakes to moderate river currents. In the aquarium, they prefer a gentle to moderate water flow that mimics their natural river basins. Strong currents should be avoided as they can exhaust the fish and make swimming difficult. Using spray bars or filter deflectors can help distribute the current evenly.
Jump risk
Yes
Although not notorious jumpers like surface-dwelling species, Blue Acaras are active, powerful fish that can easily leap out of the tank when startled or during mating chases. A tight-fitting lid or canopy is highly recommended to secure the aquarium. Ensuring there are plenty of hiding spaces like caves and driftwood will also reduce stress and lower the likelihood of jumping. Floating plants can provide additional security and cover.
Reproduction
Oviparous
Breeding the Blue Acara is relatively easy and frequently occurs in captivity. They are open substrate spawners that typically choose a flat rock, slate, or broad leaf to deposit their eggs. Both parents exhibit exemplary parental care, guarding the eggs and aggressively defending the fry. The eggs hatch in about 2 to 3 days, and the parents will move the fry to pre-dug pits until they are free-swimming.
Compatibility & tankmates
Community
Suitable tank mates include deep-bodied characins, larger tetras, robust catfish like Loricariids, and other peaceful, medium-sized cichlids. Very small fish or shrimp should be avoided, as they will likely be seen as prey and swallowed. During breeding, they will become highly protective, so keeping them with active, fast-swimming companions is best. Avoid housing them with highly aggressive cichlids that could bully them.
Tank level
Middle/Bottom
This species is primarily benthopelagic, meaning it spends most of its time in the middle and bottom layers of the aquarium. They enjoy exploring sandy substrates and searching for food near the tank floor. Providing caves, driftwood, and low-lying vegetation helps them feel secure in their preferred swimming zone. They will occasionally swim to the upper levels, especially during feeding times.

Window to the official scientific data of the species

Data synced on: 06/15/2026

Scientific Parameters & Models

Trophic level
3.3 ± 0.4 se
Resilience
High (less than 15 months)
Phylogenetic uniqueness (PD50)
0.5039
Bayesian Length-Weight
a = 0.03311, b = 3.07
VulnerabilityLow vulnerability (10 / 100)

Image gallery

Licensed images linked to the species or, when marked, to the closest representative taxon.

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Last updated: 06/30/2026
Blue Acara (Andinoacara pulcher) Care Guide & Tank Setup | Atlarium