Aquarium Setup: The aquarium architecture MUST flawlessly replicate a sunlit, densely planted, clearwater Amazonian tributary. A minimum 80-liter (20-gallon) tank (at least 60 cm long) is required to accommodate their energetic swimming. The tank MUST be heavily planted with tall background plants and massive thickets of fine-leaved flora (like Cabomba or Myriophyllum) to provide security, but you MUST leave a large, unobstructed open swimming space in the center. The substrate should be soft, light sand, and the lighting should be moderately bright to highlight their translucent yellow bodies.
Diet and Feeding: They are highly active, voracious micro-predators (omnivores) that forage aggressively in the mid-water column and occasionally at the surface. They possess a robust appetite and physically struggle with large pellets. You MUST feed them a varied, high-quality micro-diet. Daily offerings of crushed, slow-sinking high-quality flakes or micro-pellets are mandatory. To maintain their intense lemon-yellow coloration and trigger breeding, this MUST be heavily supplemented multiple times a week with live or frozen micro-foods: Daphnia, Artemia, and bloodworms.
Water Quality: Originating from pristine Amazonian clearwater tributaries, they strictly demand highly stable, immaculate, soft to moderately hard water. They thrive in warm tropical temperatures (23-28°C / 73-82°F). Crucially, they require soft to moderately hard water (GH 2-12) and a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0 - 7.5). They possess absolute zero tolerance for dissolved organic waste (Nitrates must be kept extremely low); rigorous weekly water changes are absolutely mandatory. They appreciate a moderate, steady water flow to simulate their native river currents.
Compatibility and Cohabitation: Compatibility is excellent, provided tankmates are exceptionally peaceful, similarly sized, and share their requirement for warm, planted, and moderately flowing water. They are the perfect mid-water schooling fish for a dedicated South American clearwater community. Excellent companions include other peaceful, fast-swimming Tetras (like Rummy-nose or Bleeding Heart Tetras), peaceful Dwarf Cichlids (like Apistogramma or Rams), and all Corydoras species. They MUST NEVER be housed with large, aggressive predatory fish (like massive Cichlids or adult Angelfish) that will eat them.
Aquarium Breeding: Breeding is moderately difficult and requires a dedicated, heavily planted spawning tank. They are prolific egg-scatterers that provide zero parental care. Breeding is triggered by heavy conditioning with live foods and a massive, cool water change. The male will relentlessly drive the plump female into the thickest tangles of fine-leaved plants, where they scatter hundreds of tiny, non-adhesive eggs. The adults are ravenous egg-eaters; the parents MUST be completely removed immediately after spawning to save the fry, which will require infusoria.
Risks and Diseases: The absolute greatest physical risk is severe stress and physiological collapse (complete loss of the yellow coloration, clamped fins, refusal to eat) caused by housing them in barren, sparsely decorated aquariums or in groups smaller than 6; dense plant cover and a large school are strictly mandatory. The second major risk is starvation caused by offering food particles that are too large for their mouths. Finally, they are highly susceptible to bacterial infections and fin rot if water quality is poor; pristine water is non-negotiable.