Lighting & CO2: Here lies its greatest limitation in the aquarium: it is a photophobic alga. Strong light (PAR > 100) will burn it within a few days, causing it to fade to a sad rust or white color before disintegrating. It must be placed exclusively in the shadow of rocky overhangs, under the branches of large hard corals, or in a refugium with extremely dim, soft lighting. It does not require CO2.
Nutrition & Substrate: It does not use rhizoids to draw from the bottom; all organic nourishment (phosphates and nitrates) is absorbed from the water through the membrane of the vesicles. To grow lush and maintain the turgor of its red balloons, it requires a modest amount of dissolved nutrients and regular supplementation of iron and iodine in the marine system.
Water Chemistry: Because it often comes from deep or temperate zones, it prefers water slightly cooler than the typical tropical reef aquarium, although it adapts without too many problems to temperatures of 24-25°C. A prolonged increase above 27°C will induce rapid deterioration. Salinity, pH, and dKH remain the reef classics.
Space Management & Placement: Its non-invasive nature and slow growth make it a "precious gem" for aquascaping the main display, provided its low-light requirements are respected. Attach it to the base of the rockwork, where the light from the fixture struggles to reach, using cyanoacrylate gel glue on the base of the dark branch. It adds a unique contrast of textures and colors next to spongy corals.
Pruning: Growth is so restrained that it rarely requires pruning to export mass. If the clusters spread too much, simply use coral shears to cleanly cut the central axis between the vesicles. The detached fragments can be glued elsewhere. Never crush the vesicles to prune: the lost sap severely weakens the parent branch.
Risks & Diseases: It is extremely appetizing. It is the caviar of herbivorous fish: if placed in an aquarium with Tangs or Dwarf Angelfish (Centropyge), its clusters will be popped and devoured in a flash. Even some species of sea urchins or turbo snails can raze it to the ground. The only other serious risk is the accumulation of cyanobacteria on its vesicles if water flow in the shaded areas is non-existent.