Lighting & CO2: A photosynthetic monster. To proliferate, it requires brutal lighting; the stronger, the better. PAR values exceeding 300 or direct sunlight push it to exorbitant growth rates. Under weak light, it rots rapidly, disintegrating into mush. There is no need to supplement CO2, but due to its immense photosynthetic rate, the aquarium must have a strong reserve of carbonates and buffers, as the Ulva will significantly raise the pH during the day.
Nutrition & Substrate: It is the nightmare of pollutants. It is used in bioreactors to break down nitrates and ammonia. To keep it intact and green, it needs an astonishing load of organic nutrients. If the aquarium's nutrients (nitrates and phosphates) drop to optimal reef levels, the Ulva will turn white, become riddled with holes, and die of starvation. It needs no substrate other than water turbulence.
Water Chemistry: Totally indifferent to thermal or salinity fluctuations, which it tolerates from light brackish to hyper-saline, and from 10 to 30°C. The only precaution is the replenishment of microelements (especially Iron), which it burns through at impressive speeds due to its primitive, hyper-accelerated metabolism.
Space Management & Placement: Aesthetically, it is messy and difficult to anchor. In the display, it will tend to tear and tangle its transparent fragments among the corals and in the wavemaker grates. Its primary use is in the sump, inside a large open refugium or in special cylinders with rotational flow (tumbling) that keep the sheets constantly in suspension under blinding light.
Pruning: Pruning is not only necessary but frequent (sometimes weekly). No tools are needed: simply tear away the excess leaves. Removing Ulva means extracting enormous masses of nitrates from the tank. The removed blades are the perfect, natural, zero-cost food for any tang, rabbitfish, or blenny species, which will devour it eagerly.
Risks & Diseases: If grown in refugiums lacking adequate flow, it tends to compact into layers. Because the blade is two cells thick, the layers that do not receive light rot within a day, releasing phosphates and creating dangerous black pockets of hydrogen sulfide. The key to Ulva lactuca is keeping it vigorously tumbling to prevent anoxia of the underlying tissue.